Leaving Portugal was not easy. The
last nights there were Friday and Saturday and the city was alive
until the early hours of the morning. On Friday night we walked to
the nearby park with a bottle of red wine. All Portuguese varietals
of course, that were juicy and delicious and only cost around four
Euros, making guzzling it straight out of the bottle appropriate.
As more and more people arrived to the park we toasted to our fellow
Friday night partiers. Then the crowd stood up and went silent. Two
flares shot into the air and boats began to blow their horns in the
harbor below. Then church bells from all over town started to ring
in the key of C. The cacophony rang over the harbor for about three
minutes and the faces of the crowd glowed in the light of the full
moon. Then, the noise stopped, the crowed applauded and began to
disperse. We had to laugh, because we had no idea of what had just
happened. Piqued by uncontrollable curiosity I asked a Portuguese
couple about what we had just witnessed. They explained that it was
a random Lisbon event, that they had only heard of hours before. We
had hit it just right, a small taste of unplanned magic.
Saturday night was even more festive.
Walking around the old part of the city after dining on some rather
strong and salty cuddle fish at a makeshift outdoor BBQ joint, we
stopped to listen to three distinct bands in various plazas. Fado,
punk rock and alternative rock bands all drew a dancing, drinking
crowd. We stopped in at a pastry shop for a baked apple wrapped in
pastry dough and an espresso to top off dinner. How, I wondered,
were the women so beautiful and skinny with this kind of gastronomic
gluttony at their fingertips? I didn't want to head back to the
hotel, because it was our last night in Lisbon, but tragically we had
work to do and a flight to catch in the morning. Lisbon on a
Saturday night was vibrant and packed with people partying in the
streets. The streetcleaners were brushing up the mayhem the next
morning as we headed to the Metro station that would take us to the
airport, not long after most of the crowd had just gone to sleep.
Africa.
Ten hours later we touched
down in Johannesburg. A thick mist, tinted red with illumination
from the drawn greeted us as the plane screeched to a halt on the
runway. I must admit, I wasn't able to sleep much. The anticipation
and the cramped middle seat kept me from resting my head and my leg
muscles. One more three hour flights and we will be in Lilongwe, Malawi.
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